In the 70s and 80s, our family kitchen was the scene of non-stop experimentation, as my mum, Josceline, devised the recipes for her cookbooks. But her research was conducted .Read More
The most thrilling moment in the study of any subject comes when you realise that what seems an impossibly complicated discipline is in fact underpinned by a few simple principles.Read More
This is the last of our Back to Basics columns. From next week, we will be expanding our ambition from single dishes to entire meals. We will still be writing for novice and nervous cooks,the complexities .Read More
My worst-ever day’s cooking was New Year’s Day 1993, in the kitchens of The Four Seasons Inn at the Park. I was working as a commis chef (the poor bloody infantry of the French brigade system).Read More
It’s crunch time for the Cornish pasty. Three years ago, the traditional miner’s meal was given Protected Geographical Indication Status by the EU. To be described as Cornish, a pasty must now conform to EU regulations. Not only must it be made (but not necessarily cooked) in Cornwall, but it has to meet all sorts of other specifications.
It must be fashioned into a D‑shape. It must be filled with potato, swede, onion and beef. The ingredients must be raw when the pastry is filled, and then cooked inside it. The pasty must be sealed around the edges (not on top) and it must be crimped, not pinched.